Building: Chapter 2. This tutorial on building an acoustic guitar is broken up into six chapters. Jump to chapter: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6

Chapter 2 - Tools and Hints
Now that the kit parts are explained and you understand the purpose of them, lets look at the tools and materials needed to build the guitar, and what you must do if you don't have them. Of course, there is nothing like the proper tool for the job, so even if you're a hobby builder, you may want to think about making the investment.

Adhesives
White glue, good old-fashioned Elmer's, is the best. This is used wherever parts may need to be removed later. An example is the neck joint, the saddle block and bridge. The fingerboard gets white glue as will any body pearl.

Yellow glue. Also known as carpenters glue. This is where a more permanent bond is needed. You use this on the cedar ribbing and neck and tail blocks. Also the bracing and back joints can be yellow glued.

Duco cement is used to attach bindings and the tail piece. Any wood to plastic mating, you will find that this is the stuff.

Epoxy is used to set the truss rod. Get a good strong 2 part mix with at least 2000 psi rating.

Super glue is used to do little repairs. After sanding it is not unlikely to see some loose bindings. A touch of super glue works well to reset them. Also the fingerboard dots can be glued in with this or another superglue product called Black Max. It is just black superglue, but makes repairs to ebony a dream.

Masking tape is used to hold the bindings in place while the duco sets. Also handy when test fitting.

Clamps
While this is a broad subject, there are many different types that are used to construct a guitar. The first type of clamps you will need are good old fashioned cloths pins. They are terrific for the cedar ribbing, as they hold the ribbing without marring the sides.

Spring clamps are also used for all sorts of situations. I like them to hold the ends of the bracing when I need to assure a good bond.

Pipe clamps are great for joining the backs.

C-clamps in various sizes and deep throat clamps for bridge setting.

Cauls of various shapes and sizes so the clamps don't mar the wood.

Gobar Clamps are used to glue the bracing.

Spindle clamps. You can make your own very cheaply with carriage bolts and a hole saw. A few thumb nuts and washers.

Files, Rasps And Knives
Here's what I like:
Chisels
You will need a few of these and you must keep them SHARP! I have a set of old mortising chisels that are heavy and do the job of paring down the neck cheeks for neck setting. They are 1/4 1/2 3/4 and 1 inch. I can shave with all of them. You need a good stone and strop to keep them as sharp as razors.

Routers
Yes I did say routers, as in more than one. I have at least 5 of them but I would suggest one good laminate trimmer to start with. I prefer the ones with a tilting base and separate pilot. This makes the fine adjustments for friezing a lot easier. I mention the tilt base for this simple reason, when you work on the back of the guitar, the radius that is designed into it will throw the router and make the groove thinner at the shoulder near the neck, and the binding will look pinched out. With the 5 degrees setting this is taken care of and if you allow. 010 of trimming the binding will be nice and flat when all the work is complete. It also creates an angle to keep the binding from kicking. I will explain this in more detail later.

Buffers, Sanders And Blocks
You need a good palm finish sander, and at least one 1/3 sheet sander. I really don't use the 1/3 much but it sure makes cleaning up the backs easier and faster. I use a variety of grits.

A good buffer is needed to work out the finish, especially on high gloss finishes and to even up the satin finishes. They are also great for waxing.

Sandpaper
Several different grits are needed. I use:
Polishing Compounds
Found at most auto stores, they work well to buff up a gloss finish.

Wool Bonnets
These are needed for the buffer. Use clean good buffer pads. I also have used the sponge type with good results. You need to find the ones you feel most comfortable with. I do find that the foam ones can burn easier than the wool ones.

Sprayer
While I have finished in both brush, french polish, and with aerosol cans, you just can't beat a good spray gun. They are a lot cheaper than they used to be and there are so many to choose from. Again I think this is something that you need to decide on what is best for you.

Straight Edges
You will need a few of these. Plastic ones are fine to start with but you can't beat a good metal one. An old planer blade makes a great straight edge, if you can find them.

Feeler Gauges
Again, the auto store. I use them to measure the gaps at the 6th fret and 1st for setting relief and action set ups. A nice selection from. 006 to. 032 will be more than enough.

Caliper, Scale, And Micrometer
A good 6 inch scale for close measuring, and the micrometer for accurate measurements. The caliper is needed for checking overall neck thickness and other close tolerance points.

The Mold
This is a very specialized piece that is profiled to the exact guitar style you are building. I don't recommend building without one. You don't need a professional one, you can actually make one out of cardboard for a single guitar. It will hold the shape and dimensions while constructing the body. It can also help in holding the proper neck angle to make neck setting a lot easier down the line.

These are the basic tools that are needed to build a guitar. I will mention others as this progresses.

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